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Google’s Pixel Buds A-Series and Pixel Buds Pro are some of the best premium and budget earbuds for Android, but there’s little talk of their compatibility with iPhones. Let’s walk through how to pair Pixel Buds to an iPhone and address what features you miss out on when mixing Google and Apple.

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How to pair Pixel Buds to an iPhone

What features do you miss when connecting Pixel Buds to an iPhone?

How to pair Pixel Buds to an iPhone

When pairing the Pixel Buds to an iPhone, you need to do so manually. iPhones don’t support one-step pairing with the Pixel Buds. Follow these steps to connect your Pixel Buds Pro or A-Series to an iPhone:

Place the Pixel Buds in the case and close the lid.

Open the lid and press the pairing button on the case for 3 seconds. The LED will pulse white.

Select the Pixel Buds Pro or Pixel Buds A-Series.

What features do you miss when connecting Pixel Buds to an iPhone?

Lily Katz / Android Authority

When pairing the Pixel Buds Pro or A-Series to an iPhone, you miss out on many of the software features you get with an Android phone and the Pixel Buds app. Here’s our list of Pixel Buds features unavailable on iOS.

One-step pairing

The Pixel Buds Pro and A-Series work with one-step pairing across Android devices. This is like Apple’s one-step pairing with its AirPods and Beats products.

Customizable controls

The Pixel Buds app on Android lets you customize the touch-and-hold function on the Pixel Buds Pro. Through the app, you can have this command cycle through ANC, off, or Transparency, and pull up Google Assistant. You don’t miss out on control customization with the Pixel Buds A-Series because they lack this on Android too.

Custom equalizer and EQ presets

Through the Pixel Buds app, Google gives Pixel Buds Pro listeners a five-band equalizer to adjust the sound. The Pixel Buds Pro also come with EQ presets (Default, Light bass, Heavy bass, Balanced, Vocal boost, Clarity, and Last saved). Pixel Buds A-Series owners get a bass slider for five bass frequency levels. You forfeit all this when pairing Google’s earbuds to an iPhone.

Hey, Google

When you use the Pixel Buds with an iPhone, you will not be able to say, “Ok, Google,” and get search results.

Battery life status

You can view the Pixel Buds A-Series and Pro battery life for the case and earbuds in the mobile app. There is no way to view the battery life of any Pixel Buds components when paired to an Apple device.

Find My Device

Rivaling Apple, Google has its own device-tracking software that allows you to view your Pixel Buds Pro or A-Series’ last-known location on a map. You can also ring the left or right earbud to find them nearby.

Ear tip fit test

Just like the AirPods Pro 2 on iPhone, Google’s Pixel Buds Pro have an in-app ear tip fit test. Google’s test only works on Android devices with the Pixel Buds app, but you can manually test the ear tips yourself. You’ll know the buds fit well when they seal off your ear canals and don’t loosen when you shake your head.

FAQs

Your Pixel Buds might already be connected to a previously used device. To make sure this doesn’t happen, disable Bluetooth on any devices that have connected to your Pixel Buds before pairing them to an iPhone.

To put your Pixel Buds into pairing mode:

Place the buds in the case, and close the lid.

Open the lid, and hold the pairing button on the back of the case for 3 seconds.

Your earbuds are now ready to pair with any Bluetooth device.

The earbuds are trying to enter pairing mode but can’t because one of the buds is misaligned in the case. To fix this, close the lid, open it, and properly align the buds before entering pairing mode.

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Pixel Buds Not Connecting? Here’S How To Fix That

The Google Pixel Buds Pro and A-Series are some of the best earbuds for Android phones. Even with everything these buds offer, you may run into some issues along the way. If your Pixel Buds won’t pair to your device, here’s how to get them up and running again.

Why won’t my Pixel Buds pair

Lily Katz / Android Authority

Here are the main reasons your Pixel Buds won’t pair to your phone:

Bluetooth connection issues between the earbuds and your phone.

Your phone’s Bluetooth is toggled off.

One or both of the earbuds’ batteries are dead.

Your device can’t locate the Pixel Buds.

A recent firmware update prevents the Pixel Buds from pairing and connecting to your Android phone or iPhone.

How to fix Pixel Buds that won’t pair or connect to your phone

Lily Katz / Android Authority

There are a few easy ways to fix your Pixel Buds if they won’t pair or connect to your device.

Bluetooth connection issues: If you’re pairing your earbuds in an area with a lot of Bluetooth interference, the buds may not pair. Try to bring your earbuds close to your phone when initiating the pairing process.

Dead batteries: Your earbuds’ batteries drain over time. If you haven’t used your earbuds in a while, the case and earbuds might be out of juice. If you place your buds in the case and the LED doesn’t alight, the case is out of battery, and you need to recharge it.

Firmware update issues: Firmware updates can cause pairing issues. This happened with the Pixel Buds A-Series firmware 3.519.0, which Google promptly fixed. If you hear about a firmware update wreaking havoc on your Pixel Buds model, hold off on updating the firmware until Google releases a solution.

If you’re still running into issues pairing your Pixel Buds to your phone, you may need to reset them. Then you can manually pair them to your phone.

How to reset your Google Pixel Buds Pro and Pixel Buds A-Series

With the buds in the case, plug the case into a USB-C cable to charge it.

Leave the case open.

Press and hold the case’s pairing button for 30 seconds.

Once the case’s LED stops flashing, release the pairing button.

The case’s LED will alternate between white and orange until the reset completes. When complete, the LED will flash white.

The Pixel Buds Pro or A-Series are ready to pair with your device.

After successfully resetting your Pixel Buds, it’s time to connect them to your phone.

How to manually pair Pixel Buds to an Android phone or iPhone

To manually pair the Pixel Buds to your Android phone or iPhone, follow these steps:

Place the Pixel Buds in the case and close the lid.

Open the lid and press the pairing button on the case for 3 seconds. The LED will pulse white.

Select the Pixel Buds Pro or Pixel Buds A-Series.

Some Android devices will display a pop-up notification walking you through the rest of the setup process.

To connect the Pixel Buds to another phone or tablet, follow the instructions above with the desired device. For future uses, the earbuds will automatically connect to the last-used device when you open the charging case.

FAQs

Yes, the Pixel Buds Pro support Bluetooth multipoint, allowing them to connect to two devices at once.

No, the Pixel Buds A-Series can’t connect to more than one device at a time. For that, you need the Pixel Buds Pro.

Google Pixel Buds Review (2023): No Cord But Caveats

The biggest issue I had with the first-generation Pixel Buds was blocking out external sounds, and sadly the new Google Pixel “true wireless” earbuds are only marginally better in this area. The lack of any active noise isolation in the low end is enough for me to not rely on them when I’m flying, since the engine noise will seep through.

Had Google added Active Noise Cancellation (ANC), instead of relying on just passive noise isolation from the ear tips, I’d imagine sound quality would be significantly better in all areas. Mainly speaking, in the realm of bass, or lack thereof: it’s all pretty flat, especially if you’re expecting the same level of thump produced from the Nuraloop. That’s not to say that everything is terrible.

The middle and high-end sound fine to me, and overall sound quality is good. Listening to my daughter’s piano recital, for example, each piano note came through crystal clear. Once again, this comes down to how Google tweaked the sound profile – and because there’s little bass, everything else sounds clearer. If you like your earbuds to sound neutral, I suspect you’ll like the Pixel Buds’ EQ.

Alternatively, there are third-party companies selling memory foam ear tips with better passive noise isolation, so they’re worth checking out. Google’s not the only one having this issue, mind. I’ve received countless reports of AirPods Pro owners complaining about the same fit problem; especially when the Apple’s ANC requires a tight seal to activate.

I can’t help but yearn for Nura’s new Nuraloop or my gold standard JH Audio 16 v2 Pro with Fostex over the ear Bluetooth module. I use these two products as benchmarks because, at two different price points – $199 and $3,000+ for the Nuraloop and JHAudio 16 v2 Pro, respectively – they each demonstrate how you can check off all the boxes: outstanding sound quality, comfort, battery life, and ease of use.

Two neat features Google did add are auto volume and an air vent on each earbud. On the spec-sheet, they look great, but in real-world use, I wouldn’t miss them if they weren’t included. The auto-volume control was either too delayed to be of use, or I could barely notice the difference.

The other feature that I was upbeat about was the integration of Google Translation. Sadly, you still need to open up the app on your phone for things to work. At the end of the day, I’d still rather just use my Pixel 4 XL, instead of jumping through all the hoops required to get the Pixel Buds playing properly with Translate.

That goes for using the Google Assistant, which is also integrated into the Pixel Buds. Again, it works, and I do like the idea of having it there on the rare occasion when I need it. All the same, I’d much rather have longer battery life and ANC.

The earbuds surface is touch-sensitive, allowing you to change volume control by swiping forward (or up) to increase or back (or down) to decrease volume. Then tap to pause and tape again to resume. I like that whatever I’m playing automatically pauses when I remove one or both earbuds from my ears. It resumes after re-inserting one back in.

Google Pixel 7A Vs Pixel 5A: Should You Upgrade To The Latest Pixel?

Want to make a quick purchase decision? Here’s a quick rundown of the key differences between the Pixel 7a and Pixel 5a.

The Pixel 7a sports a slightly smaller 6.1-inch display vs the Pixel 5a’s 6.34 inches.

The older Pixel 5a weighs considerably lesser than the Pixel 7a, even though it sports a larger build.

Unlike prior Pixel A-series phones, the Pixel 7a’s display features a smoother 90Hz refresh rate.

The Pixel 7a’s Tensor G2 chip is significantly faster than the 5a’s Snapdragon 765G. The newer phone also packs an additional 2GB of RAM, taking the total up to 8GB.

The new design of the Pixel 7a leaves no place for a rear-mounted fingerprint scanner. The sensor is now placed under the display instead.

With its new 64MP primary sensor and upgraded ultrawide lens, the Pixel 7a’s cameras are far superior to the ones on the Pixel 5a.

Google has added wireless charging to the Pixel 7a, a first for Google’s A-series Pixel smartphones.

The Pixel 7a lacks a 3.5mm headphone jack, which was included on the Pixel 5a.

Keep reading to know more about how the Pixel 7a differs from the Pixel 5a, including in more areas like connectivity and ergonomics.

Google Pixel 7a vs Pixel 5a: Specs

The Pixel 5a will not get software updates beyond 2024. The Pixel 7a has five years of support ahead of it.

Finally, let’s talk about software. The Pixel 5a will turn two years old later this year. That puts it on track to get just one more year’s worth of updates, including security patches. This is because the Pixel 5a was the last Google phone in history to receive just three years of updates.

Modern Pixel devices now enjoy five years of support, with three major software updates and an additional two years of security patches. So if you pick up a Pixel 7a, you won’t have to worry about your phone’s security until 2028. That’s a long support commitment and makes the Pixel 7a look extremely future-proof when compared to the Pixel 5a.

Google Pixel 7a vs Pixel 5a: Size comparison

You also get a host of new software features that make the Pixel 7a’s camera significantly better from a less obvious perspective. Features like Real Tone and faster Night Sight make the imaging experience far more consistent from shot to shot. The older phone missed out on most of these Pixel-exclusive features as Google’s semi-custom Tensor G2 chip does a lot of heavy lifting. The same applies to the selfie camera, which also got a resolution bump from 8MP to 13MP.

Google Pixel 7a vs Pixel 5a: Battery and charging

Robert Triggs / Android Authority

Battery life hasn’t ever been a strong point of the Pixel series. However, the Pixel 5a’s efficient Snapdragon 765G chip paired with a decently-sized battery translated to some of the best endurance we ever saw on a Google phone. During our review period, we found that the phone could make it through a full day with over half of its charge still intact. That’s phenomenal runtime from any smartphone, Pixel or otherwise.

Unfortunately, Google’s winning streak in the battery life area was rather short-lived. The Pixel 7a has returned to the series’ average, providing just enough battery life to satisfy casual users. You can thank the flagship-grade Tensor G2 chip here as it’s far more power-hungry than the Pixel 5a’s Snapdragon 765G. Likewise, the new 90Hz display is a welcome usability improvement, but it comes at a power and battery cost.

Google Pixel 7a vs Pixel 5a: Price

Pixel 5a: Starts at $449

Pixel 7a: Starts at $499

When the Pixel 5a launched in 2023, Google increased the starting price relative to its predecessor from $349 to $449. However, that generation brought a host of improvements like 5G support, a larger battery, and IP67 protection. In many ways, the Pixel 5a was the spiritual successor to the Pixel 4a 5G rather than the base Pixel 4a. With that context in mind, the Pixel 5a’s $449 price was actually lower than the Pixel 4a 5G’s $499 tag.

With the release of the Pixel 7a this year, Google has returned to that $499 price point. But with so many upgrades in tow, we believe that the 11% upcharge is justified. It’s still rather affordable in the context of other mid-range smartphones. But if you’re still not looking to spend that much, the last-gen Pixel 6a will stay on shelves for just $349.

Would you upgrade from the Pixel 5a to the Pixel 7a?

161 votes

Ultimately, you’ll have to decide whether the Pixel 7a’s new features justify the price of admission. From looking at the spec sheet alone, it looks like one of the biggest year-over-year upgrades the series has ever seen. But if you’re currently using the Pixel 5a and don’t feel the urge to get a new phone, you can always wait for the final software update and re-evaluate next year. Will you make the switch? Let us know in the poll above.

FAQs

No, the Pixel 7a has taken a step back in battery life compared to the Pixel 5a. However, it should last the average user most days of use.

If you’re upgrading from an older A-series Google smartphone like the Pixel 5a, the Pixel 7a is worth upgrading to. It offers a range of hardware improvements along with much longer software support.

How To Connect A Soundbar To A Tv

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A soundbar can give your TV a serious upgrade in terms of audio fidelity and power: music gets more immersive, dialog becomes more distinct, and bass sounds really kick when you’ve got a soundbar set up as a replacement for the default speakers built into your television. Luckily, it’s not hard to learn how to connect a soundbar to a TV.

You don’t need to put aside half a day to get your new piece of equipment set up. Most soundbars are relatively straightforward to install, and most TVs will automatically recognize when you’ve attached a new audio device.

The soundbar featured in the photographs accompanying this article is the Sonos Beam (Gen. 2), but no matter which soundbar you’ve bought to upgrade your home theater setup (and whichever TV you’re connecting it to), you should find much of the setup process is similar.

Know what all the connection ports do

Most soundbars come with some type of HDMI port. David Nield

Before you start plugging in cables, get familiar with the ports on the back of your soundbar. If you’re not sure what something is, check the included instruction manual, and if you don’t have a hard copy you can usually download a digital one from the manufacturer’s website.

The familiar HDMI (High-Definition Multimedia Interface) port is the one you’re most likely to see. HDMI cables transmit top-quality audio and video together, though in the case of a soundbar it’s obviously just audio. You might also see references to HDMI ARC (audio return channel), which introduced two-way audio in 2009, and HDMI eARC (enhanced audio return channel), the 2023 update that added higher bitrates, better surround sound, and support for more audio codecs.

It doesn’t matter whether your soundbar has HDMI, HDMI ARC, or HDMI eARC, you’re still going to connect that port to your TV. But it’s worth noting that if you have basic HDMI without those additional acronyms, you might not have access to the same features and sound quality carried by the newer connections. So if you have an older soundbar without eARC support, you might want to think about an upgrade.

You may also see an optical digital audio port, either on its own or alongside an HDMI connection. This will get you high-quality audio, but not quite as good as what you’d get with HDMI eARC, and this type of port has gradually been phased out on newer models as the eARC standard has taken over.

On the oldest, smallest, and cheapest soundbars, you might also see a 3.5mm analog audio cable port. You can use this to connect your soundbar to your TV, but you won’t get the best audio quality. Additionally, you should see a port for the soundbar’s power cable. In the case of the second-generation Sonos Beam, there’s also an Ethernet port for a more direct (and stable) connection to the internet, if it’s needed.

Connect your soundbar to your TV

Look for the HDMI port on your TV to connect your soundbar. David Nield

The usual rule of electronics applies here: Switch off everything you’re working with while you get it all connected. Power up your soundbar first, and then connect the soundbar to your TV. As mentioned above, this will usually be via an HDMI cable, though you might also need to use one of the alternative ports.

[Related: How to fix the annoying audio delay on your soundbar]

Older HDMI cables will work with an HDMI eARC soundbar, but you won’t get all the best features. It’s the same with TVs, where HDMI eARC has been available on sets manufactured in the last few years: You’ll still get sound out of an older television with a non-eARC HDMI port, but you won’t be able to get the top audio quality that eARC supports.

If your TV has an HDMI eARC port, that’s the one to go for when it comes to making the connection, otherwise, any spare HDMI port will do. Once you’ve connected the soundbar to the TV, ensure the cables are firmly in place. If you’re using optical digital audio or analog audio, look for the corresponding port on your TV, which should be marked accordingly—your TV’s instruction manual can help.

Finally, get your TV and soundbar positioned the way you want (as well as your subwoofer, if one is part of the equation), then power up the television first, followed by the soundbar. If all goes well, the two devices should successfully connect to each other and work pretty much straight away.

Finish the soundbar setup

With all the cables connected to the Sonos Beam (Gen. 2), it’s almost time to sit back and enjoy. Sonos

Connecting a soundbar to a TV isn’t a particularly tricky task, and you’ll usually find that your equipment works immediately—particularly if you have newer hardware that supports the latest standards. Try putting on some sports or a movie to hear the difference in the audio quality.

You should also take some time to play around with the audio settings on your TV. We can’t give you instructions for every single model, but the audio settings menu shouldn’t be too hard to find with your TV remote. In some cases, you might have to specifically choose the soundbar as the audio output to force sound to exit your connected speaker instead of the TV’s defaults. You might also find you can adjust the audio output quality and enable extra features (such as Dolby Atmos or DTS:X).

One acronym to look for while you browse these settings is CEC (consumer electronics control) or HDMI-CEC. Essentially, these enable you to control your soundbar’s volume and on-off state using your TV remote (and via the HDMI cable). Most of the time, you’ll want to have this enabled, and it will likely be enabled by default on the majority of sets anyway.

Your soundbar may have a few settings to play around with too, though—again—we can’t give you a comprehensive guide to all of the soundbars out there. The Sonos Beam (Gen. 2) has touch controls on the unit itself for volume control, as well as an accompanying mobile app that enables you to beam audio to it straight from the apps on your phone, for example.

All that’s left is to enjoy the benefits and the improved audio quality of your new soundbar. If everything isn’t working as it should, try swapping to a different HDMI port on your TV, switching out the HDMI cable for a different one (a brand-new one if possible), and diving into the audio settings on your television set.

Camera Shootout: Google Pixel 7 Pro Vs Apple Iphone 14 Pro Max

Let’s jump right into some key differences. Throughout our shootout, you’ll notice a much cooler white balance from the iPhone. While this sometimes looks more realistic, particularly in overcast conditions, it’s also often too extreme and ends up reducing the phone’s otherwise excellent color realism.

The iPhone also offers more extreme exposure, risking highlight clipping to make the subject stand out. While this is a fair trade-off for portraits and macro with a clear subject, it’s far less ideal for landscape shots. In addition, this produces a higher contrast look to Apple’s pictures that adds pop at the expense of crushed blacks and clipped highlights.

The Pixel 7 Pro is a little more muted but more realistic, by comparison, but it tends to push its white balance too warm. Slightly purple tints to the sky are all too common, unfortunately. Ultimately, it comes down to whether you like a bit more pop to your images. That said, the phones aren’t always miles apart in their presentation, with both offering similar exposure and color science in a number of our shots too.

Cropping in on detail from the main camera, we can spot a few more key differences.

While there’s a similar level of detail on offer, the two phones process it very differently. Apple takes a more natural, softer approach that aims for realism over making details pop, though we can still see telltale signs of a sharpening pass on straight lines in the snaps below. Even so, the toned-down processing leaves far less color and shadow detail on the table. Google’s algorithm is heavier on the sharpening pass, giving the appearance of more color detail and contrast at the expense of some more noticeable sharpening artifacts.

The bigger drawback of the Pixel approach is the occasional mushy texture artifact. We can see this more clearly in scenes with varied textures, like foliage in the shot above. Apple’s shot is again very soft by comparison but more realistic, even if it loses some of the finer details in the process. I can’t say I’m a huge fan of either approach; something in between would be ideal.

Apple prefers color pop, while Google makes its details pop.

The two brands clearly have very different takes on default image processing. Overall, I’ve found the Pixel 7 Pro to be more consistent in its delivery, but, when it gets it right, the iPhone 14 Pro Max can hand in more artistically pleasing results.

Camera shootout: Google Pixel 7 Pro vs Samsung Galaxy S22 Ultra

Pixel 7 Pro vs iPhone 14 Pro Max camera: HDR and low light

Let’s try our hand at some tougher lighting conditions. Historically, Google has excelled at HDR processing while Apple’s handsets have struggled. Let’s see if things have changed this generation.

Apple’s iPhone 14 Pro Max does a decent but certainly not perfect job with difficult HDR scenarios. The handset balances highlight exposure well but struggles with shadow detail and color extraction. The first shot is pretty close, but the second example really showcases the strengths of Google’s multi-frame algorithm when it comes to shadow and color capture in downright tricky HDR situations. That said, some may find Google’s approach too strong, verging on a little unrealistic.

Apple has closed the gap in low light, but still struggles with extreme HDR.

In low light using night mode, things are a little different. The iPhone generally does a better job at brightly exposing its subject, although there’s an element of vignetting in the second image. I’d give the nudge to the Pixel 7 Pro here for white balance, but its colors are a tad more washed out.

The second image is a bit of an oddity for the Pixel. Its denoise algorithm completely smudges and removes all the detail from the snap. This happened on multiple takes. The iPhone 14 Pro Max captures far more detail, albeit with a heavy dose of sharpening and noise that’s not exactly pretty. Overall, both phones have you very well covered for low-light photography, but tricky lighting can throw up some issues, and the results definitely don’t look as polished as daylight snaps.

Google’s Pixel 7 Pro is more flexible in the dark, though, offering long exposure and astrophotography modes that let you snap images the iPhone simply can’t capture with anywhere near the same fidelity. See the level of detail in the astrophotography shot above. It’s a shame the Pixel’s color balance is often thrown off in these scenarios.

Going back to ultrawide versions of our initial snaps, we see the same general trends in image quality. The iPhone’s ultrawide lens offers a brighter exposure but darker shadows, a cooler white balance, and an additional color pump. The Pixel is flatter but ensures more balance to its dynamic range. Both results are pretty good and offer very similar levels of detail, any preferences will once again boil down to your love or hate of saturation.

In terms of field of view, there’s not a huge amount in it, just a few degrees. Both fit plenty into the frame. Let’s take a look at the frame edges to see which offers superior distortion characteristics.

You’ll often spot purple halos and smudged details at the edge of ultrawide lenses, but there are minimal signs here. While frame edges aren’t as detailed as the center, there’s minimal chromatic aberration and no glaring drop-off in quality. I’d give the nudge to the Pixel, very marginally, for lens correction and focus clarity, as there’s slightly less blurring at the very edges. With macro capabilities in tow, too, there’s very little to pick between these ultrawide cameras — aside from your preference for color processing.

With different optical zoom lenses onboard, we expect even bigger differences in zoom capabilities. Let’s dive right in, starting with the Pixel 7 Pro.

The iPhone is surprisingly competitive out to 5x, which is a testament to Apple’s own computational photography capabilities. Again, Apple opts for a much brighter exposure than Google. The handset also does a better job at ensuring consistent color and exposure as you move between the zoom levels, at least in this scenario. However, fine details succumb to the small sensor’s higher noise levels, so don’t plan on blowing these up for a large print.

Turning back to the intriguing nature of Google’s image fusion technology, which blends detail from the 1x and 5x sensors at intermittent zoom levels. The trade-off is that central subjects look brilliant, but details at the edges of the snap much less so, as these are upscaled from the primary sensor. Looking at the frame edges in the 3x cropped shot below, you’ll spot a noticeable drop-off in image quality.

The left side of the Pixel snap is clearly inferior to the detail level of the iPhone. However, the right side, which comprises data from the 5x zoom lens, is actually superior to the iPhone’s native 3x zoom, providing sharper details free from signs of denoise and sharpening. Pixel 7 Pro sub-5x zoom snaps are a mixed bag then, handing in solid details for the center subject but clearly inferior image quality at the edges of the pictures. You probably wouldn’t notice without really looking, but it’s worth highlighting the trade-offs with Google’s technology.

Selfies and portraits

Both phones take decent but not brilliant portraits and selfies. The two offer solid bokeh blur. I prefer the iPhone’s application of light circles, but the Pixel does marginally better at fine hair detection.

Indoors, both phones struggle to pick the perfect skin tone due to the lack of natural light. The Pixel 7 Pro is slightly worse here, with a warm skin tone but a cool overall white balance. Both phones are also overly sharp with their skin textures, but the iPhone is noisier in this environment.

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